Assessment (Review) and Modifications
Characteristics
Small footprint. Heavy beechwood. Horizontal mast and H-Frame. Two upper clamps.
Internal, tiltable H-Frame mounted inside another H-frame attached to the base. Non-foldable.
Construction
Even though the tolerances on the wood guides are excessive, and there is some play in the loose pin hinges, the easel is fairly robust and steady in the upright position. In the horizontal position, less so. Mine came with substantial gripping square bumpers under the base. This easel model is a smaller option for a multimedia easel (meaning horizontally enabled) whereas other multimedia models can be quite large and cumbersome. Unlike some easels, this one allows a fairly low mounting height when holding a canvas in the vertical position.
Variants exist in the market. Descriptions advertising elm wood are unlikely to be made of elm as elm has become extremely rare. Unused holes, and bolts long enough to accommodate missing spacers suggest that some components may have been repurposed as post production designs were altered. What you find under different brand names may vary in implementation and hardware. Five point star knobs are included (these are often the better choice for grip). Annoying small brass plates behind the tightening knobs fall out when replacing the top clamps. However the clamps and their mechanism for setting a clamp's height are quite effective with no slippage noted. The included carriage bolts are M6 (diameter) and 50mm and 60mm in length. The channels that are cut into the vertical armature will handle the substitution of ¼ inch diameter bolts with no difficulty. I report, along with many users that the inner H-frame does not always lift into its horizontal orientation and return to the vertical smoothly (without catching and sticking) and even after modification this remains a problem. The main mast extension was warped not only at the sides but also had a bend backwards.
After Market Modifications
Hinges:
The small brass hinges fastened with tiny screws were replaced with tighter black T-strap hinges.
The adjustable tilt wood bars, hinges attached, had been misaligned, narrowing upward, are now parallel.
Casters:
Replaced floor bumpers with threaded 2 inch casters were used because the wood base sides were only 1 1/8 inch wide. In my case T-nuts of a size to receive 5/16 inch threaded bolts were used to mount the casters. The T-nuts needed multiple hard whacks with a hammer to press them into the hard beechwood. Ear plugs are strongly advised.
You may be happy with the supplied floor bumpers but the easel is heavy if you have to move it. A possible hybrid arrangement with bumpers at the base front and wheels at the back combine non-movement with portability. This scheme would require that the height discrepancy be addressed between bumper and caster. Your problem, not mine.
Wing Knobs on the H-Frame Pivot:
Wing knobs on ¼ X 2 ½ inch carriage bolts replace the principle pivot on which the internal H-Frame (holding the canvas) tilts. The knobs were moved from inside to outside positions for better access. If you can find them, use partially threaded carriage bolts as their movement through the channels are much smoother. Fender washers added to straddle the cap end of these carriage bolts but are thin enough not to interfere with the locking action of the metal squares at the cap end of carriage bolts.
Bumpers Added:
Clear, high grip bumpers (7/8 inch diameter at base) were fastened in the following fashion:
• bottom clamp / shelf – 2 bumpers with each one near the side edges of the 14.75 inch wide wood shelf.
• wider of two top clamps – 2 bumpers with centres 1.5 in from each end affording the ability to hold supports as narrow as 12 inches in width. This can be used as the bottom clamp/shelf if needed for small supports (i.e. 12 inches and wider).
• Smaller top clamp – very small bumpers applied as spacers, a 5 mm thick piece of maple provides a 10 mm lip extending down is intended to prevent larger canvases from crashing down.
Spacers and Washers for Alignment and Improved Movement:
• To allow the internal H-frame clearance from its external H-Frame, insert one fender washer having ¼ in hole on both sides. Fender washers are quite thin but provide a sufficient gap for the wood frames to clear each other. You will have to loosen one of the screws on the wood cross bar in order to do this and re-tighten after done.
Construct DIY Spacers:
For the smallest wood bars supporting the internal H-Frame in a horizontal position, I cut two 6mm thick wood spacers from a hardwood dowel 1 inch in diameter. This was the thickness required to align the movable wood support bars parallel with the outer wood H-frame to which they are to be attached. In order to do this first clamp a length of dowel not yet cut (I used a piece left over from wooden drape rod) and drill a small guide hole down its center about an inch deep. Slowly redrill using a drill bit that will produce a hole that can clear the 6mm carriage bolt that will go through it. Then 'slice' off with a saw two 6mm thick wood discs. I used a mitre or chop saw passing the blade slowly and steadily to make the cuts. You can connect them to the remaining dowel with masking tape before making the cuts so they don't go flying off. Coat exposed wood surfaces on the disks with semi-gloss water based urethane varnish. This will raise the grain enhancing the grip and when dry strengthen the wood spacers.
Brass Pressure Plates Taped in Place:
White electic tape was applied loosely over the small brass plates integral to all 4 tightening clamps (the 4 larger knobs) used on this easel's 3 canvas clamps and at the back of this easel's single main mast height extension.